1986 Chateau Margaux Margaux, France (750ml)

WINEMAKER’S NOTES:

1986 is an astonishing vintage; its very slow development in a way reminds us of the previous generation’s wines. Its tannic structure is very tight-knit, very dense and softens only very slightly from year to year. The bouquet is starting to open up; however, we feel that it is still only showing a limited part of its enormous potential. It is full and rich on the palate, still a little bit firm. Should we drink it?…A great vintage, but which seems to belong to another, older era.TASTING NOTES:A magnificent example of Chateau Margaux and one of the most tannic, backward Margauxs of the last 50 years, the 1986 continues to evolve at a glacial pace. The color is still a dense ruby/purple with just a hint of lightening at the rim. With several hours of aeration, the aromatics become striking, with notes of smoke, toast, creme de cassis, mineral, and white flowers. Very full-bodied, with high but sweet tannin, great purity, and a very masculine, full-bodied style, this wine should prove nearly immortal in terms of its aging potential. It is beginning to budge from its infantile stage and approach adolescence. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2050.– Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, 98 pts.This has matured fully but still clings to a slightly rugged feel, with a briar patch note framing the core of dried currant, blackberry and bitter cherry fruit. Twinges of alder, plum skin and cedar fill in the finish, which shows a decidedly grippy edge of smoldering charcoal. Impressive for depth and power, though this very tannic Margaux may never yield fully to the inherent elegance of its terroir. It can certainly handle more cellaring.
– Wine Spectator, 95 pts.